1. Shut off the main water supply — turn the valve clockwise (gate valve) or perpendicular to the pipe (ball valve). Location: where the water line enters your home. 2. Turn off electricity to affected areas at the breaker panel if you can reach it safely without standing in water. 3. Call (888) 450-0858 for emergency extraction — every hour of standing water increases damage and cost significantly.
The actions you take in the first hour after discovering a burst pipe have an outsized impact on the final restoration cost. Water from a broken supply line can discharge 400 to 600 gallons per hour — flooding a room in minutes and reaching wall cavities within the first hour through capillary action. What you do in this window determines whether the event stays at Class 1 (small area, minimal absorption) or escalates to Class 2 or 3 (extensive absorption, major material replacement).
The single most important action is stopping the water flow. Your main water shutoff valve is typically located where the water supply line enters your home — in the basement, crawl space, or utility closet on the wall facing the street. Gate valves have a round wheel handle and close by turning clockwise. Ball valves have a lever handle and close by turning the lever perpendicular to the pipe. If you have never located your shutoff valve, do so now — before an emergency — and ensure it operates freely.
While waiting for the restoration crew, move electronics, documents, and small valuables above the water line if you can do so safely. Do not attempt to move heavy furniture in standing water. Photograph all visible damage from multiple angles — this documentation is essential for your insurance claim. Record a video walkthrough showing the water level, the suspected source, and all affected rooms.
When water freezes inside a pipe, it expands approximately 9% in volume, generating pressures that can exceed 20,000 PSI — far more than any residential plumbing can withstand. The burst typically occurs not at the ice blockage but downstream, where the pressure buildup between the ice and a closed faucet has no relief. Pipes most vulnerable: exterior wall pipes, uninsulated pipes in attics and crawl spaces, and outdoor hose bibs. Prevention: maintain home temperature at 55°F minimum even when away, open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls, and let faucets on vulnerable lines drip during extreme cold.
Copper pipes develop pinhole leaks from interior corrosion after 15 to 25 years, especially in areas with aggressive water chemistry (low pH, high dissolved oxygen). Galvanized steel pipes — common in homes built before 1960 — corrode from the inside out and become increasingly failure-prone after 40 to 50 years. Polybutylene pipes (gray plastic, installed 1978–1995) are notorious for brittle failure. If your home has original plumbing older than 25 years, a plumbing inspection can identify pipes approaching failure before they burst.
For complete information on what happens after you call, see our water damage restoration process guide. For cost expectations, visit our restoration cost guide.
The main shutoff valve is typically located where the water supply line enters your home — in the basement or crawl space on the wall facing the street, in an interior utility closet, or near the water heater. It is usually a gate valve (round handle you turn clockwise) or a ball valve (lever handle you turn perpendicular to the pipe). Turn it fully clockwise (gate) or perpendicular to the pipe (ball) to stop all water flow to the home. Every household member should know this location before an emergency occurs. If you cannot find or operate the valve, there is a secondary shutoff at the water meter at the street — this requires a meter key or adjustable wrench.
Do not use electrical appliances or light switches in areas with standing water — water conducts electricity and electrocution risk is real. Do not use a regular household vacuum to extract water — only use a wet-dry vacuum rated for water. Do not attempt to thaw frozen pipes with an open flame (torch, lighter) — use a hair dryer or heat lamp. Do not turn your water back on until the burst pipe has been repaired or isolated. Do not wait until morning if the burst happens at night — water damage worsens by the hour, and the cost difference between a 2 AM response and an 8 AM response can be thousands of dollars.
Standard homeowner insurance (HO-3 policies) covers water damage from burst pipes as a sudden and accidental event. This includes the water damage restoration, but typically does not cover the cost of repairing the pipe itself — only the damage the water caused. One important exclusion: if the pipe burst because of a pre-existing condition you were aware of and failed to maintain (a known slow leak, visibly corroded pipe you ignored), the insurer may deny the claim under the maintenance exclusion. Frozen pipe bursts during winter are covered as sudden and accidental, provided you maintained adequate heating in the home.
Every hour of delay increases damage, cost, and mold risk. Call now for immediate help from an IICRC-certified restoration professional.